On my Mini2440 + VGA, unfortunately, was no power supply. Can someone tell me what requirements must be met by a suitable power supply? (Voltage, current (power), polarity)
Suitable Power Supply for Mini2440
Thanks a lot. I bought a power supply with 5V and about 3A. Unfortunately the adapter doesn't fit. But I'll try an other power supply next week...
Ok, about 1A or 1.5A seems to be the best choice. But I can't find any information about the size of the connector of the power supply. The one I bought was to big. Does anyone know the right size?
2A is minimum! More is better than less. I have now fifteen ampere turn! If in any case exaggerated. 2.5 A is evaporated at me. The connector should have internal dimensions of 1.35 mm. The allocation is plus the inside and the outside negative. The best you take the whole board with the purchase. In the electronics store you get the right plug to solder! Then you can use the 3A power supply.
I tried to put 5v, 500mA. The indicator of power supply light up weakly. but no reaction on 4 other LEDs. Why current also needed to be consider apart from voltage??
The board does not even boot up? If you do not have enough current capability the supply voltage will either sag below the minimum required to run the board or hopefully go into current limit and effectively shut-down. The mini2440 with backlight on draws about somewhere around 1Amp. A 1Amp or 1.5Amp supply should be just fine. Bigger, just costs more. The connector is a bit difficult, so make sure the power supply works with your mini2440 and does not shut down if you wiggle the connector slightly. Think there was another thread on the connector issue. Good luck
They are a fairly common DC plug connector of the type that come on plug packs. Measure the outer diameter with a vernier caliper and check the internal diameter with a drill bit. 1.0mm from memory, but check it! The main problem I had, was that the outer diameter seems to vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. If is on the loose-side the connection will be intermittent.
I assume you are talking about the mini2440. There is no 5V regulator, that is what the plug-pack provides. CON1, CON2 and CON3 are UART connectors and according to the schematic (found on the downloads page) they all have a label CON4 under each one. There is a VDD5V pin on each one so I conclude that you could feed your regulated 5.0V supply into one of these pins. Doing that will bypass the power switch and your next problem will be getting some of those connectors :) On another connector labelled CON8 (on the top) and CON4 (on the bottom) it looks like you access to both VDDIN and VDD5V
The Mini2440 with W35 display takes 3 watts max or 600mA. ANyone who needs more than 2A for a 7" has some other problem. ARMWorks has the 4 pin power cable and a matching header in their cable kit.
Thank you davef for your answer. Can you tell me why that VIN and VDD5V is not connected, if there is none component who connect them? Now, I'm working with some GPIO on CON4 using flat cable (34 wires). So if there is no inconvenience, I will power the mini2440 with the same way :)
I believe they go to either side of the power switch, which is not on the schematic. A quick ohmmeter check should confirm. A visual shows the DC power input goes to one side of the switch so leaving the switch in the off position check, with a ohmmeter from the other side of the switch to a VDD5V pin on any of the CONs.
devef >> What is the best way to protect ADC pin on CON4? I've tried 3.3V Zener but it not cover all voltage range (0V-3.3V). It true that the GPIO could support till 4.8V (cf. S3C2240 datasheet, page 554)?
androjes, Hold on a minute! Looks like I may have been looking at the wrong CON4. When I did the document search I found the UART connectors which all have CON4 on the bottom of the symbol. I now understand you are talking about the GPIO (CON4) connector. The traces for these various VDD5V lines to these connectors may not have the current carrying capacity of the intended 5V power input trace. Measuring the track resistance or being able to view the actual sizes of these traces would be necessary (and some of them are probably buried in inner layers in the PCB). Protecting a ADC input. I do not understand "but it not cover all voltage range (0V-3.3V)." On all inputs I use a 47 Ohm series resistor on each port followed by a Bourns CD143A-SR2.8~3.3 – Steering/TVS Diode Array Series to the outside world. My datasheet is numbered differently than yours, ie 22-45. Searching for the word tolerant shows up a few hits but no suggestions than any ports are actually 5V tolerant. Which datasheet are you looking at? As I recall, I think their previous part the S3C2410 had some 5Volt tolerant inputs.
So, using CON4 to power mini2440 is not really a good idea! >> Which datasheet are you looking at? http://www.friendlyarm.net/dl.php?file=S3C2440.pdf >>I do not understand "but it not cover all voltage range (0V-3.3V)." Using 3.3V zener the output can't reach till 3.3V! >> On all inputs I use a 47 Ohm series resistor on each port followed by a >> Bourns CD143A-SR2.8~3.3 It's really necessary to protect mini2440 with the CD143A?
It is an idea that requires further investigation! That is the same datasheet I have. Ah, page 27-1 shows as page 554 in the toolbar :) Yep, that was one of the hits I got on the word tolerant. >> Using 3.3V zener the output can't reach till 3.3V! I still don't understand. A zener diode will do nothing until the voltage reaches 3.3V then it goes low impedance. With a Zener diode clipping at 3.3V the voltages in the last few hundred millivolts at the top of the input range may be affected (non-linearity). It should have no affect until you reach close to its zener voltage. Sorry again, looking at my breakout board the Zener goes on the input side of the mini2440 and the series 47 Ohm resistor goes to the "outside world". The CD143A is really just a more consistent method than using individual zeners. No, you don't have to have input protection, however I was not keen on blowing up a 3V3 input when a lot of the hardware still uses 5V signals. We do all this protection stuff in commercial product where the environment is probably more closely controlled than a hobbyist playing around on his workbench. In other words, I see it even more relevant that the inputs have some protection.
>> So, using CON4 to power mini2440 is not really a good idea! When CON4 was one of the UART connectors it was probably a better idea as it is very close to the power connector and switch. You can see the traces to those connectors on the bottom of the PCB. The 5V trace to those connectors and to CON5 look like they could handle a "back-feed" setup. CON4 has the same size trace coming from the USB connector, but must go internal to pick up the trace to CON5. I'd have to pull the touchscreen off to see if it is a top-side trace. It looks like that trace goes to other layers by means of a single via (by the silkscreen marking R79). It even looks like there might be thermal relief on that via so that may become significant contributor to overall track resistance.
Another thought ... a lot of your input power usually go to USB devices and as the track from CON4 (GPIO) is a good solid trace to the USB connector then that part of the total loading is removed from any traces to the rest of the mini2440. The LCD and its controller is another significant load. Where does its 5V feed figure into the overall distribution plan? Lastly, you would need to consider where the 3V3 and 1V8 regulators attach to the 5V bus and take that current loading into consideration. Is this for commercial product?
>> Is this for commercial product? Yes!! Especially for industrial application. Are you confident for its robustness? do you have a ruggedized version? >> I still don't understand. A zener diode will do nothing until the... I've tried this method (http://www.thebox.myzen.co.uk/Raspberry/Breakout.html) with Resistor = 150 ohms and 3.3 zener When I apply 2.98V in circuit entry, I measure 2.79V in output (gap=6.3%). when I apply 3.28V in circuit entry, I measure 2.97V in output (gap=9.4%). This drop volt (more than 5%) is not acceptable for my application. Because I need to measure voltage between 0V to 3.3V using mini2440 ADC. >> You can see the traces to those connectors on the bottom of the PCB... Yes, I think that those tracks are designed to support 5V with back-feed setup.
> Are you confident for its robustness? do you have a ruggedized version? Do I have a ruggedised version? I am just a user, I have nothing to do with the design, manufacture, sales or support. The actual unit has proven to be quite reliable, to me. The only issues I have had are finding good DC power plugs and a intermittent SDcard socket. That is because I have probably plugged and unplugged SD cards several thousand times by now, into one mini2440. What you measure on the gap is precisely what I was talking about. Which zener P/N are you playing with? Would the CD143A-SR3.3 be a better choice? Why do you need to measure all the way to 3.3V? Just pot it down a bit, say to a maximum of 3V, put the input protection on and no more problems. You just lose a bit of resolution. > Yes, I think that those tracks are designed to support 5V with back-feed setup. I think some of the tracks could handle a back-feed setup. I haven't seen how 5V gets to the USB device connector.
>> I haven't seen how 5V gets to the USB device connector. It have!! There is a thick track from VIA next R79 (botton side) or K3 (top side) to VIA next R41 (botton side) or SDCard socket (top side). >> Which zener P/N from BZX 3V3 family, but I don't know exactly its P/N. >> Why do you need to measure all the way to 3.3V? Measuring to 3.3V is a requirement.
Great. Those vias look really odd to me. Neither of them even look like they connect to the trace, I see an annular ring around the via that looks like the copper is etched away. Is it just a optical illusion caused by the silkscreening? The CD143A-SR3.3 or more suitable devices might have a smaller effect around the breakdown voltage. I didn't see any curves on the CD143A-SR3.3 > Why do you need to measure all the way to 3.3V? I meant is, why do you need to put 3V3 on the ADC pin? To be more explicit ... the interface to your device could have a measurement capability to 3V3. In your device you take the 3V3 and reduce that say by a 1K to the input of the mini2440 and a 10K to ground. This way you will only put 10/11 * 3V3 = 3Volts on the mini2440 input. 3V3 zener to ground and job done. What am I missing here?
>> Is it just a optical illusion caused by the silkscreening? I already tested them, they are perfectly connected. I think that those vias are also used as testpoints. >>I meant is, why do you need to put 3V3 on the ADC pin? I need to measure signal voltage through an OpAmp (TL082), with high precision. The voltage range is 0V-3.3V. In normal condition, the OpAmp can't output more than 3.4V. Cause of opAmp power (+/-5V), the ADC pin can't receive more than 5V. >> The CD143A-SR3.3 or more suitable devices might have a smaller effect >> around the breakdown voltage. My last solution is to use OpAmp in follower mode. It has no drop voltage, but it just fairly expensive compared to zener.
>> That is the same datasheet I have. Ah, page 27-1 shows as page 554 in the toolbar :) Yep, that was one of the hits I got on the word tolerant. The ADC GPIOs are really 4.8V tolerant?
Good morning, OK, on the vias. I was just about to scratch off the resist to check! It does say the VDDadc can be up to 4.8V and normally you are allowed to take an input voltage up to its supply rail (well slightly over if current limited). It also seems to state that normal GPIO can go to 6.5V. Good luck in trying to get Samsumg to confirm. We use a lot of their parts and I thought a had a reasonably hot-line to their support people, but could never get anything useful out of them. If you search "tolerant" you will find a lot of previous traffic on this site. If you look through the S3C2410 datasheet I think you will find that they are much more specific about the voltage ratings on the many different types of I/Ps they use. For the equipment we were making we needed to know these facts to ensure 100% reliability, well as good as reasonably possible. Back to the ADC input: There must be another reason why you are not scaling the input voltage to ensure the maximum NEVER went above 3V or so. Slight lost in precision? Precision will be limited by the number of ADC bits. What accuracy are you trying to achieve?
>>What accuracy are you trying to achieve? With 10 bits ADC, I'm trying to achieve 3% accuracy I decide to use an OpAmp to protect ADC gpio, it's more simple and reliable. Thank you davef for your post.
You are welcome. Accuracy ... just keep in mind the tolerance on the 3V3 reg as the ADC reference (Aref) comes from there. Good luck! davef
Hi davef, I think is not a very good idea to use a 5V power supply. I used an on-board converter +/- 5V/1A (10W) http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RAC10-05DC%2F277/945-2112-5-ND/... The result is not satisfied because the screen is fairly glitched. If you check the adapter which is delivered with Mini35-OEM, it has 5.25V/2A. How do you think when using 5.2V/1A for mini2440 + 3.5" LCD
If you check the max voltage rating on every component and they are, say greater than 5.5V then running 5.2V will probably be OK. One of my adapters was 5.1V so I am happy running 5.1V to it via my own supply. My screen doesn't glitch until the supply gets down to 4.7 - 4.8V. Are you sure it is not an intermittent power connector? Getting DC power plugs that fit properly into the DC power socket has been a "hit and miss" affair for me. Fortunately, our electronics shop had 3 different makes of plugs in their bin so I bought several of each.
I checked the schematic to see what actually runs off he raw 5V. It looks like 5V goes mostly to peripheral connectors and the on-board regulators. So, you are probably more concerned about the voltage rating of USB devices you plug into the board. I'd check out what the LCD controller supplies can handle, see lcd35_schematic.pdf
Had a look at the linked datasheet. Well specified, but I couldn't see anything that relates to transient behaviour. IE, how the output voltage holds-up under sudden increases in current. I see it can handle up to 36000F cap on the output, have you tried that to see if it is surge current related?
>>My screen doesn't glitch until the supply gets down to 4.7 - 4.8V. Are you sure it is not an intermittent power connector? My on-board adapter supplies: 4.92V/4.45V resp. off-load/loaded And I powered Mini2440 via CON4 (34pin GPIO) >>One of my adapters was 5.1V so I am happy running 5.1V to it via my own supply. Could you send me the reference of your adapters? I supplied 5.1V to mini2440 using DC power supply (Agilent), everything seems OK (no glitch found). It consumed around 650mA that all.
4.45V will be a problem, all right. The datasheet says 1.5% drop at rated load current. That is 0.1Volt drop from no-load. You are only drawing 1/3rd the rated load current and the drop is much much higher. Something is not right here. Did you try a big capacitor on the output as a test?
> Could you send me the reference of your adapters? Sorry, I did answer then went "off page" and lost it. It is a modified switch-mode supply out of some equipment that the company I worked for make. It is not really suitable for general use. It uses a pretty common LM2592HV switcher. www.ti.com and look at the datasheet.
hai, i am using an smps for mini 2440 with a voltage rating of 5v, current 2 amps.. in this mini 2440, i am contolling heater(upto 400 degree capacity) by gpio pins using pwm. when the heater reaches its 300 degree temperature the mini 2440 is shutting down... can any one help regarding this issue. but if i use adaptor of 5v/2A, the board is working well.
I assume the mini2440 and any power supplies are at room temperatures. Has the duty cycle on the PWM hit a maximum value? Maybe try monitoring the supply current and see if that changes when your heater goes above 300 degrees. Then try watching the supply voltage with an oscilloscope through this temperature range. Tell us how you interface the PWM output to the heater, SSR, drivers?
pwm works depend on given temperature range, i have set a temperature range depends upon that duty cycle varies... here i am using a opto, nothing but level transulator, the gpio gives 3.3v, but heater requires 24v, this ic converts 3.3v to 24v with same duty cycle.